[Korean Attractions] Invitation to a Thousand-Year Forest… A Spring Story Told by Red Camellias

[Cheonji Ilbo Gwangyang = Lee Bong-hwa Reporter] A single red flower blooms on a tree and falls to the ground, only to bloom again. The legend of the Gwangyang Okryongsaji Camellia Forest announces the arrival of spring. Over 10,000 camellia trees, each over 100 years old, surround the temple site. This thousand-year forest, imbued with the geomantic philosophy of Seongak Guksa Doseon, continues to tell its story while retaining its greenery throughout the four seasons. The Youth Camellia Festival, scheduled for April, is expected to further enliven the spring of this red forest.

Located in Okryong-myeon, Gwangyang, Jeollanam-do, the camellia forest boasts the largest scale in South Korea and was designated as Natural Monument No. 489 in 2007. In 2006, it received the Excellence Award in the ‘Beautiful Thousand-Year Forest’ category from the Korea Forest Service, recognizing its value. As you walk up along the Okryongsaji site, the sunlit temple grounds spread wide, surrounded by clusters of camellia trees. Along the Baekgye Mountain Seongak Guksa meditation trail (Okryongsaji - Seouam Temple Site - Nunbakji Spring - Geummokjae - Summit), camellias line the paths, shyly announcing the arrival of spring with their red blossoms nestled among the sparkling green leaves.

The camellia tree belongs to the family Theaceae and is also known as ‘Sanda-hwa(산다화)’. It typically grows to a height of 7 to 15 meters and is characterized by its red flowers and round brown seeds inside its fruit. It mainly thrives in southern coastal areas, Jeju Island, and Ulleungdo, and during its blooming period from January to March, the camellia flower is pollinated by the camellia-bird instead of insects.

◆The Red Heritage Blooming in the Land of Geomancy

The Gwangyang Okryongsaji Camellia Forest, located at 71 Baekgye 1-gil, Okryong-myeon, Gwangyang-si, was designated as Natural Monument No. 489 in 2007. This place is steeped in legend, as it is said that Seongak Guksa Doseon, a Zen monk and geomancy expert from the late Unified Silla period, planted camellia trees to enhance the energy of the land surrounding Okryongsa Temple, located south of Baekgye Mountain (505 meters above sea level). Doseon Guksa resided at Okryongsa for 35 years starting in 864, training numerous disciples, and he passed away here. The camellia trees surrounding the temple site have preserved their greenery throughout the four seasons for a millennium.

Okryongsaji is located in the vicinity of 302 Chusan-ri, Okryong-myeon, Gwangyang-si, and was designated as Historic Site No. 407 in 1998. Although only the temple site remains today, Gwangyang Okryongsa is a historic temple where Doseon Guksa, who greatly influenced Korean Buddhism and folklore, resided and attained nirvana. The temple is said to have been founded in the early 8th century during the Unified Silla period but was destroyed by fire in 1878. At one time, there were stupas and stone tablets dedicated to Doseon Guksa and Tongjin Daesa along the stone tablet street to the east of the temple, but they are believed to have been damaged during the Japanese occupation around 1920.

Excavation investigations that began in 1997 revealed building foundations and stone tablet fragments, as well as remains and a coffin presumed to belong to Doseon Guksa. This is considered an important relic that provides insight into the funeral customs of high monks from the late Unified Silla period. 

Doseon Guksa is also said to have created the camellia forest and established tea fields to promote the area’s energy. His courtesy name was Okryongja, and his surname was Kim. He was a master of geomancy during the late Silla period, settling at Okryongsa at the age of 37 and guiding his students. Originally from Gurim in Yeongam, he became a monk at the age of 15 and traveled to famous temples across the country before settling at Okryongsa, where he passed away in 898 (the 2nd year of King Hyo-gong of Silla) at the age of 72.

◆The Legend of the White Dragon Chased Away by Camellias

During the late Silla period, King Hyo-gong bestowed the posthumous title ‘Yogong Seonsa’ upon Doseon. His disciples erected a stupa at Okryongsa and named it ‘Jeungseong Hyedung Stupa.’ King Sukjong of Goryeo posthumously honored Doseon as a great monk and appointed him as royal teacher, while King Injong conferred the title Seongak Guksa upon him. In the 4th year of King Uijong’s reign, a stele was created with an inscription by Choi Yu-cheong at the king’s command. However, the completed stele could not be erected immediately and was left in the courtyard of Gukcheongsa in Gaeseong for over 20 years before being moved to Gwangyang Okryongsa in 1173 through the efforts of the temple’s abbot, Jemun. Today, the portrait of Doseon Guksa is preserved at Suncheon Seonamsa and Yeongam Dogapsa.

The stupa at Okryongsaji was restored by Gwangyang City in 2002 based on artifacts unearthed during excavations. According to the legend, this temple site was originally a large pond inhabited by nine dragons that troubled the people. Doseon chased away the dragons, but the white dragon refused to listen, so he blinded it with his staff and boiled the pond water to drive it away. Afterward, he filled the pond with charcoal to create the temple site and built the temple. It is also said that the camellia forest was created to enhance the weak energy of the land.

Meanwhile, about 300 meters from Okryongsaji is Unamsa, famous for its 40-meter tall bronze statue of the Medicine Buddha, the largest of its kind in the East. Surrounding the statue are grand stupas and massive elephant stone statues, along with intricate murals that create a scenic viewing point.

◆A Feast Under the Red Camellias

To inherit the history and culture of Okryongsa and widely promote the nature of the camellia forest, Gwangyang City will hold the 8th Gwangyang Millennium Camellia Festival on April 5-6, under the slogan ‘Thousand-Year Forest, Camellia Flowers Bloom.’

On the first day of the event, April 5, starting at 10 AM, various programs will unfold, including a traditional parade, a children’s writing and drawing contest (including OX quizzes), an impromptu stage for tourists, camellia oil experiences, and walks along the camellia forest deck path and Doseon Guksa meditation trail. On April 6, there will be treasure hunts, local specialty sales, various experience booths, and a camellia song contest with representatives from towns and villages participating, along with an awards ceremony.

During the festival, performances by popular singers such as Han Gang, Ji Won, Lee Jeong-ok, and Hwang Min-ho are also scheduled, raising expectations. The red feast of camellias, harmonizing with the thousand-year forest, is expected to create special memories this spring.